How we select.
Two lists sit behind every product in the store. One is what we will not stock at all. The other is what we will stock and always label, because the right answer depends on your skin rather than on our opinion.
Never stocked
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ParabensUnder regulatory review in several markets
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Formaldehyde releasersRelease formaldehyde slowly over time
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PhthalatesRestricted in cosmetics in several markets
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SLS and SLESStrips a compromised barrier
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Heavy metal colourantsCarry impurity limits we would rather avoid
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TriclosanRestricted, and no longer necessary
Stocked, always labelled
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RetinolEffective, and not for everyone
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Essential oilsNatural, and a common sensitiser
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FragranceFragrance-free by default, trace amounts only
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Alcohol denat.Suits oily skin, not a dry barrier
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SiliconesA texture choice, not a safety one
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Nut derivativesFine lipids, declared allergen
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Animal-derivedVegan prioritized where an equal option exists
Why each one is on the list.
Open any line for the reasoning and what we look for in its place.
Parabens Under regulatory review in several markets +
Methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butylparaben
Preservatives still under review by regulators in several markets, and among the most commonly avoided ingredients in clean formulation.
Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-hexanediol and ethylhexylglycerin, the systems most Korean labs now use. free-paraben
Formaldehyde releasers Release formaldehyde slowly over time +
DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15
Preservatives that work by releasing small amounts of formaldehyde. Restricted or capped in several markets, Canada included.
The preservative systems above, agreed with the brand at formulation stage.
Phthalates Restricted in cosmetics in several markets +
DBP, DEHP, and phthalates carried inside fragrance
Restricted in a number of markets and routinely excluded by clean beauty retailers. Most often they arrive hidden inside a fragrance blend.
Fragrance-free formulas, and written phthalate-free confirmation for any fragrance we accept. That closes the most common route in.
SLS and SLES Strips a compromised barrier +
Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate
Strong surfactants that clean well but strip a barrier that is already struggling, which is the opposite of what most of our customers need.
Amino acid and glucoside cleansers that foam less and leave the barrier intact.
Heavy metal colourants Carry impurity limits we would rather avoid +
Certain lakes and metal-based pigments
Colour additives that come with heavy metal impurity limits. We avoid the category rather than track each batch.
Mineral and certified cosmetic colourants that meet Health Canada limits.
Triclosan Restricted, and no longer necessary +
Triclosan, triclocarban
Antibacterial agents restricted in cosmetics in multiple markets, and unnecessary in modern formulation.
Standard preservative systems, or formulas that never needed an antibacterial.
Retinol Effective, and not for everyone +
Retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde
Well studied and it works. It is also not right for every skin or every life stage, and not something to receive without knowing.
Stated on every product page, so you can pass on it or seek it out. free-retinol
Essential oils Natural, and a common sensitiser +
Citrus, lavender, tea tree and similar
Natural does not mean gentle. Cross-reaction with fragrance allergy is common, and reactions build over time.
Stated on every product page, so a sensitive routine stays predictable. free-essential-oil
Fragrance Fragrance-free by default, trace amounts only +
Parfum, fragrance, aroma
One word on a label can stand in for many undeclared components, and fragrance is a common trigger for reactive skin. Most of what we carry is unscented.
Unscented formulas first. Where fragrance is present, we accept it only at trace levels, with no declarable fragrance allergens in leave-on products, a passed skin irritation test on the finished formula, and written confirmation that the blend is phthalate-free. Stated on every product page. free-fragrance
Alcohol denat. Suits oily skin, not a dry barrier +
Denatured alcohol, SD alcohol
It makes a formula feel light and dry fast. That is welcome on oily skin and works against a dry or compromised barrier.
Stated on every product page, so the choice follows your skin rather than ours. free-alcohol
Silicones A texture choice, not a safety one +
Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane
They sit on the surface and make texture feel better than the formula underneath. Some people want exactly that.
Stated on every product page, so you can decide what you are paying for. free-silicone
Nut derivatives Fine lipids, declared allergen +
Almond, macadamia, argan and similar oils
Excellent oils for most skin, and a declared allergen for a meaningful number of people.
Stated on every product page, so an allergy is never a guess. free-nut
Animal-derived Vegan prioritized where an equal option exists +
Carmine, lanolin, beeswax, animal collagen
Where two products perform alike, the vegan one enters the store. Where a product is not vegan, the page says so.
Stated on every product page, so you can shop fully vegan by choice.
How we check
Every product arrives with its full INCI list. We screen that list against both lists above, then our medical panel reviews the product before it is listed. The result is recorded as a tag and printed in the Free from line on the product page, so you see the outcome for each item rather than taking a store-wide claim on trust.
What this is not
It is not a ruling on what is safe. Regulators have not banned most of what appears here, and plenty of good products contain ingredients from the second list. This is the line we drew for a curated store serving people with sensitive and reactive skin.